Friday Flickr – Skansen Open-Air Museum

My first Friday Flickr album is from Skansen Open-Air Museum in Stockholm. It was the world’s first open-air museum and is huge. AND it has bears!

As part of being super-organised with my new website (and being super-enthusiastic) I’ve decided to have a regular feature.

Yes, just like the real bloggers.

As I have an abundance of photos that I’m slowly trying to upload to Flickr, I thought I could do myself a favour and make my Flickr albums multi-functional by using them on here.

I’m also thinking that linking my social media accounts in this way might generate more readers and be good for my SEO. I sort of understand what SEO is and why it’s important, but actually I don’t really. Pearls of wisdom in the comments section below will be welcomed.

So, onto my first Friday Flickr (drummm rollll) …

It’s an album filled with the best of my photos from Skansen, a photogenic place if ever there was one.

Skansen can be found on the outskirts of Stockholm and was the world’s first open-air museum. It was opened in 1891 and has been growing ever since.

It showcases historic buildings from the full length of Sweden and also has a zoo and an aquarium. People dressed in periodic costume demonstrate crafts from times gone by like breadmaking and glass-blowing.

But best of all, I got to see bears. Real ones! They looked so cute and cuddly. Well, except for their huge claws. I think I’m probably glad I didn’t meet any in the wild when I walked the Kungsleden.

Fika

I spent a very long day wandering round and only stopped for one quick coffee (couldn’t miss out on fika, especially when it looked like this). I saw pretty much everything except the aquarium, but felt like I was rushing. I would have liked to have taken it slower and had more time to watch the animals. Two days would have been much better, but there were so many other things to see in Stockholm and my time was running out, so I couldn’t really justify it. I’d definitely go back again though.

Click on the image below to access the Flickr album.

Skansen Open-air Museum, Stockholm

The website for Skansen can be found here.

Website coming soon!

This is a post I’m writing that no-one’s going to see straight away.

One of the challenges on my list of 60 things to do before I’m 60 is to get my own website. There are a couple of reasons why this is on there. One reason is pleasure and a sense of self-achievement. I enjoy using the internet for all kinds of things and I like to understand the things I’m interested in. By creating my own website I’m developing a better understanding of how things work on the web and this insider knowledge enables me to use the web more effectively.

The second reason is more practical. I want to write, travel and generally spend more of my time doing things that I enjoy. Having my own business (or at least being able to generate some of my own income without having to work for it through regular jobs) is one way of achieving this. And of course, every good business needs a website these days doesn’t it?

A few years ago I attended night-school and spent a couple of terms learning web-design. This was really useful and I learnt a lot, but didn’t actually do anything with it at the time. I’ve now decided the time is right to turn my blog into an actual website.

Setting up the basic site, buying hosting, getting a domain name and so on, was all really easy. I imported WordPress, partly because this is what most websites and blogs seem to use now and also because I already had my blog in WordPress.

So far, so good. All I had left to do was choose a theme. This should have been the easiest bit, but for some reason all the themes I tried wouldn’t display correctly and I was getting some really bizarre looking layouts. I’ve ended up going with the basic WordPress theme for 2016 which I do quite like, though I was hoping for something that looked a bit more ‘websitey’ rather than ‘bloggy’.

I’m now tweaking and checking everything and writing up a few posts offline to make sure all is well. I’ve noticed that some of my photos on previous posts haven’t transferred across in the original layouts, so at some point I’ll have to go back and adjust them. This isn’t my biggest priority at the moment though. I still have lots of unfinished posts sitting in drafts that I really want to get finished and posted.

What will I use my website for other than a glorified blog? I’m still working on that, but I feel good about having a foundation to build on. And it’s one more challenge completed.

 

An Eyeful of Eiffel

I was last in Paris back in the mid-80s when I was interrailing around Europe. I was on an extremely low budget and couldn’t afford to go up the Eiffel Tower; instead I stood underneath and gazed up through its iron girders.

When I found out I was going to be spending a couple of days in Paris at the end of December I toyed with the idea of finally ascending the Tower, but realised it was unlikely to happen unless I wanted to spend most of my time in Paris standing in a queue.

The first thing I did when I arrived was to check it out, wondering if perhaps the recent terror attacks had scared the queues away, but no, the line was still about half a day long.

I did get plenty of good views of it though, including the iconic view from the top of the Montparnasse Tower.

I’ve put together a Flickr album of my images and images of images of the Eiffel Tower. (No, I haven’t said images too many times there).

I’ve also decided I’m not going to leave it another 30 years before I go back to Paris and that next time I’ll book a time slot well in advance.

 

An Eyeful of Eiffel

Tea at the Ritz

Afternoon tea at the Ritz will be another challenge ticked off my list.

One of the more sedate challenges on my 60 before 60 list is to have afternoon tea at the Ritz.

When I first lived in London I worked at a sandwich bar on a hidden alleyway near St James’s Palace. I used to get the tube to Green Park and so twice a day I would walk past the Ritz on Piccadilly. I never ventured inside. Doormen in tophats and tails would swing the doors open for expensively clad people alighting from taxis outside; if it was raining they even held huge golf umbrellas to prevent elegant hairdos from turning frizzy.

I imagined the same doormen slamming the doors shut if I ever tried to enter in my old jeans and trainers. One day, I thought, I will go there and they will hold the doors open for me and I will go inside and have afternoon tea. (I considered afternoon tea to be the poshest of the posh when it comes to food.)

Although I’ll happily do most things on my own, this is one of those things that I think will be enjoyed more if I have someone to share the experience with. And as it’s expensive I knew it could take a while before I found someone willing. Fortunately, I’ve now found that someone.

A good friend and I were at the funeral of another friend this week. She was only 45 and died suddenly. After the funeral we went for a drink in her memory and got onto a maudlin discussion of how life is short and you never know what’s round the corner. I kind of know this already which is one of the reasons I have a list in the first place, but sometimes I need reminding of it.

By the end of the drink we’d decided that part of making the most of life should involve a weekend in London and afternoon tea at the Ritz. I went home and booked it.

Because we want a weekend date and don’t want to have afternoon tea at 7.30pm in the evening (that’s just wrong), the earliest date I could get is in October. At least we’ve got plenty of time to save up for it.

And maybe it will be raining in October. Even if it’s not, I might still ask the doorman to hold an umbrella over my head.

 

 

A year ago I was at Up Helly Aa

Up Helly Aa has been and gone again. It’s always on the last Tuesday of January and brightens some of the darkest days in the British winter. Shetland being so far north, it gets even gloomier than Manchester. Something hard to believe with the gloomy, drizzly weather we’ve been having lately.

Last year I was fortunate to be able to spend a week in Shetland and attend the festivities. I got to have one of the most unforgettable experiences of my life (and there have been a few!) and to cross a challenge off my 60 things to do before I’m 60 list.

I’ve been following it closely online this year and wishing I was there. I’ve just been reminiscing with my photos. The low light, rain and fast moving Vikings made it difficult to get good photos, but even the worst photos have good memories behind them and I love looking back at them. I’ve selected a few of the better ones and have put together a Flickr album.

Up Helly Aa

I’ve written a few other posts on Up Helly Aa and they can be found by clicking on the links below.

After my trip last year, I wrote about the day and the night parts of the festival.

I’ve also written an overview of what Up Helly Aa is.

My potted history of the festival can be found here.

The Up Helly Aa website can be found here.

 

Sailing along the Seine

A boat trip along the Seine was the perfect start to a day in Paris.

Having spent a long time living in London, I’m now of the belief that a proper city has to have a river running through it.

A big river.

A river that can be called the lifeblood of the city.

As London has the Thames, so Paris has the Seine. Of course, I gravitated towards it.

I saw some very crowded tour boats chugging up and down, but it was later in the day and the tourists were out in force. The following morning I made sure I was up in time to get on the first trip of the day when it was much quieter. The light was nicer too.

The trip gave me a good overview, but now I’m thinking of how nice it would be to go back and do a long a walk along the banks and explore properly.

I really enjoy walking the Thames Path (even if, after 15 years, I’m still only about a third of way along it). I wonder if there’s a Seine Path?

I’ve put my photos into a Flickr album. Click on the photo below to access it.

 

Sailing along the Seine

Paris – the aftermath

I’d already booked my trip to Paris when the attacks happened. Of course I was asked if I was still intending to go (by people who don’t know me very well) and when I said ‘yes’, asked if I was scared (by people who know me even less well). Until people started asking, the idea of cancelling hadn’t even occurred to me.

Having lived in London through two IRA campaigns, lived on the Lebanese border of Israel during the first Intifada and lived in Kinshasa during the build-up to an attempted coup to oust Mobutu, I’m not easily railroaded onto the fear wagon.

There are two kinds of risk in life: foolhardy and calculated. Although Damascus has always been high on my wishlist of places to visit, I’m not planning any trips in the forseeable future. But Paris? Come on, really?

Here are my reasons for why I considered Paris to be the safest and best possible place to visit over the Christmas and New Year period.

  • As one of the largest cities in the EU and with a population of nearly two and a quarter million, the statistical chances of my being involved in a terrorist attack were miniscule.
  • Paris had already had ‘its’ attacks. If others were to happen they’d be far more likely to be elsewhere.
  • Because it was so soon after the attacks security would be really high making it much less likely for further attacks to succeed.
  • As so many people were cancelling the city would be much quieter than usual, meaning less queues and possibly reduced prices.
  • I don’t want to live a life governed by fear. I don’t want to let extremists (of any persuasion) dictate what I do and don’t do. I don’t want to add to the ‘success’ of their atrocities by adapting my life, particularly when it’s to the detriment of the city affected. The BBC reported that 7% of the French economy and two million jobs are reliant on the tourism industry, so the sharp drop in hotel bookings immediately after the attacks and the knock-on effects on shops, restaurants, taxis and tourist attractions, has a serious impact.

So how did I find things once I was actually in Paris?

Soldiers at the Christmas market
Soldiers at the Christmas market – I especially like the one in red!

The presence of armed soldiers on the streets was unusual for a European city. I don’t think I’ve seen this since Belfast during The Troubles. Even during the IRA campaigns in London I remember only occasionally seeing armed police on the streets and never soldiers.

soldiers at the Eiffel Tower
Soldiers at the Eiffel Tower

I felt the soldiers were there more as a public reassurance measure than for any practical reason. Adding ‘friendly’ machine gun fire to any terrorist incident could increase the death toll rather than reduce it. And it would be unlikely to deter a suicide bomber from detonating their bomb, let alone prevent a car bomb from going off.

Soldiers on the Champs Elysees
Soldiers on the Champs Elysees

Many of the posher shops along the Champs Elysees had security guards outside who were carrying out bag searches and waving a security wand over customers before allowing them to enter. Again, I wasn’t sure how much of a preventative measure this was as anyone with a bomb or gun could just as easily started their attack outside the shop as inside.

Security checks outside Louis Vuitton
Security checks outside Louis Vuitton

The November attacks happened inside crowded stadiums and theatres. I can see how security checks outside these places may have prevented the attacks or at least scaled them down. But a shop on a busy street? Particulary a shop with a queue of sitting ducks lining up outside? Would it really make much difference if it happened inside or outside? I think not, but even so, it was still kind of reassuring to see.

As for my non-altruistic reason for visiting Paris at this time – less queues and lower prices – did I find a difference? Well, due to security checks some queues were longer than they previously would have been and the Eiffel Tower still had a queue that it was estimated would take about half a day to get to the front of. At other attractions however, less tourists did make it quicker and easier. As I wasn’t familiar with Parisian prices beforehand, and we’d already booked and paid for our hotel, I don’t actually know if it was any cheaper or not.

Queueing at Abercrombie and Fitch
Queueing at Abercrombie and Fitch

What I do know was that I enjoyed my time in Paris, felt completely safe and would happily return (though maybe when I’ve booked the Eiffel Tower well in advance).

 

 

 

Montparnasse Tower

Montparnasse Tower from the Eiffel Tower
Montparnasse Tower viewed from the Eiffel Tower

I’ve never been up the Eiffel Tower. Many years ago when I interrailed around Europe my budget was so low all I could afford to do was to stand underneath it and gaze up through its iron girders.

Having a slightly higher budget this time round, I did consider ascending but thought the queues would put me off. As I was only going to be in Paris for a short time I didn’t want to spend half a day standing in a line.

Montparnasse Tower
Montparnasse Tower by day

As lots of tourists are reported to have cancelled trips to Paris since the November terrorist attacks, I did wonder if this would mean less queues than usual. On our first morning in Paris we headed straight for the Tower to find out. But no, the long snaking line still meant a wait of several hours. Not to worry, we had a Plan B.

The Montparnasse Tower is lesser known than its rival even though it has one huge advantage. The iconic view of Paris has to include the Eiffel Tower. When you are at the top of the Eiffel Tower you get a great view of Paris, but of course it’s missing that one thing that turns a great view into an iconic view.

View of the Eiffel Tower
That iconic view

We timed our trip to the top of the Montparnasse Tower for late afternoon / early evening so we could take in the view in daylight, watch the sun go down and then see night-time Paris lit up below us.

view from the Montparnasse Tower view from the Montparnasse Tower view from the Montparnasse Tower view from the Montparnasse Tower view from the Montparnasse TowerThe tower is easy to get to – Montparnasse Bienvenue Metro Station is right outside. There was only a short queue to buy a ticket (another advantage over the Eiffel Tower) and then we passed through airport style security to get to the lifts.

The lifts are among the fastest in the world and, reaching speeds of 22kmph, zoomed us up to the 56th floor in 38 seconds.

The 56th floor consists of a shop, restaurant and indoor viewing gallery. We didn’t want to stay here though; we wanted to be at the very top. We climbed the stairs to reach the 59th floor roof terrace.

Roof terrace The roof terraceThe roof terrace covers the entire roof and although there are glass walls around the sides, there are gaps which make it easier to get clear photographs.

I wandered from end to end and from side to side taking in the 360° view of Paris. The most popular side was, of course, the one with the view of the Eiffel Tower.

view from the Montparnasse Tower view from the Montparnasse Tower view from the Montparnasse TowerAs the sun went down and the city’s lights began to sparkle the Eiffel Tower started to twinkle.

view from the Montparnasse Tower view from the Montparnasse Tower view from the Montparnasse Tower view from the Montparnasse Tower view from the Montparnasse Tower view from the Montparnasse Towerview from the Montparnasse Tower

Once it’s fully dark the Eiffel Tower puts on a whole flashy, twinkly lightshow for a few minutes each hour.

We sat on comfy seats gazing at the view for a while longer before starting to feel the cold and heading back down to the 56th floor for a warming cup of hot chocolate.

View from Montparnasse Tower
View from my comfy chair
Montparnasse Tower
Montparnasse Tower by night

The website for the Montparnasse Tower is here.

It costs €15 per adult.

Kungsleden Photographs

Photographs from the Kungsleden; Sweden’s spectacular Arctic wilderness.

In the summer of 2014 I walked about half of Sweden’s Kungsleden (it translates as the King’s Way or the King of Ways, depending on who you choose to believe).

The Kungsleden begins well above the Arctic Circle in Swedish Lapland and follows a trail through valleys, over mountains and across rivers and lakes. Although there are camping huts spaced roughly a day apart, for the most part this is true wilderness with the nearest road often being several days walk away.

Basic food supplies can be bought at some of the huts, but for the most part you have to carry everything you need. The food in the huts is of the dried, canned and processed variety as it all has to be brought in my snow-mobile in March when the snow is at its deepest. It then has to last till the end of summer.

Water for washing and drinking is taken from the lakes and rivers and is some of the purest I’ve ever drank (and washed in).

I’ve put some photograhs (actually, I’ve put a LOT of photographs) on Flickr, but even the best photography can’t do justice to the beauty of this place. It’s one of those places you just have to see for yourself.

Click on the image below to access the album.

Kungsleden

The Golden Circle at New Year

A New Year’s Day trip round Iceland’s Golden Circle.

Having posted my wintry Reykjavik photographs yesterday and having my first Flickr experience, I’ve got a bit carried away and put another album together.

The Golden Circle is a popular day trip from Reykjavik. The 300km loop encompasses Þingvellir (the site of world’s oldest parliament and the place where the tectonic plates that form Europe and America are being slowly pulled apart), Gullfoss waterfalls and the geysers at Haukadalur which include Strokkur and Geysir (the one after which all other geysers are named). The tour also includes Kerið volcano crater, Skálholt church and the small geothermal town of Hveragerði. I chose to visit on New Year’s Day in 2012 when everything was frozen and under a thick layer of snow. The scenery I saw that day still takes my breath away when I think about it.

Click on the picture below to get to the album on Flickr.

The Golden Circle at New Year