Ice hockey

I just got tickets for my first ice hockey game.

This isn’t on my list but it will be a first. I’ve just booked tickets to see an ice hockey game. I know nothing about it but it sounds like fun. The 15 year old daughter of a friend is coming with me and as she’s a fan who goes fairly regularly, I’m hoping she’ll explain it to me as we go along. 

The game is in Nottingham which is where my friends live. We’ll be watching the Panthers (the local team) play the Fife Flyers on the 3rd of March. It’s a Saturday so I’ll probably make a weekend of it and try to fit some other stuff in too.

Apparently ice hockey is big in Germany where my brother lives so I may get to go again when I go to visit at Easter. This is going to start seeming like a habit!

2012 Twelve January Review

How did I do on my 2012 Twelve challenges in January?

As we’re now into February I thought I should review how I’m doing on my 2012 Twelve. I’ve only mentioned the tasks I’ve actually done something about.

1. Floating in a floatation tank – I’ve got this booked and will be floating a week on Wednesday.

3. Taking at least one photo every day of the year – I’ve done this for about half the month. I’ve started carrying my snappy camera around with me all the time, but most days just forget about it.

4. Coming up with a fitness plan and sticking to it (the start of my training for Kilimanjaro, though I may not actually climb it for several years yet) – I haven’t done anything about the fitness plan yet, but I did attend a talk on Kilimanjaro.  

7. Learning to use at least 3 new pieces of technology or computer programmes (not counting my new camera) – I’m booked to do an ‘Apple in an hour’ course at school just after half term. This will be the start of me learning to use an Apple Mac.  

8. Doing a writing course – I’ve enrolled for an online course with the London School of Journalism and received the first two lessons. I haven’t had time to start them yet though.

9. Getting at least one piece of writing published (paid or unpaid, as long as someone else makes the decision to publish it and it’s not self-published) – I wrote a brief book review for Wanderlust and they’ve accepted it. I’m not getting paid, but will be published in a prestigious travel magazine.  

11. Buying a car/van that I can sleep in (and doing any necessary conversions/adaptations) – I’ve started researching vans and how to convert them.

Stonehenge and Greenland

Thinking about archaeological and Arctic Circle walks.

Womad falls at the wrong part of summer. I’d much rather it was at the beginning of the summer holidays and then I could head south for the festival and then go up to Scotland for the rest of the summer. As it is I’m going to have nine days of holiday time before the festival. I’d spend the first few days at home anyway as I always have lots to do and sort out before I can go away. But nine days! I’ll feel like I’m wasting my precious time off. So I’m going to head down to the Wiltshire / Somerset area and have a few days wandering around before Womad starts.

I’d been wondering what to do for these few days, but not doing any actual research as I’ve got other trips to plans first. I’ve just watched a documentary on iplayer about some new archaeological excavations on Orkney and the programme was linking what was being found there with the later stone age ‘buildings’ of Stonehenge and Avebury and so on. I like this kind of stuff so I started thinking about doing some kind of walk linking the various neolithic remains together. Then just as I was flicking through my ‘Walk’ magazine (it’s the magazine issued by the Ramblers) I came across an article about a proposed Great Stones Way which does exactly that. It links Avebury to Old Sarum via Stonehenge, Silbury Hill, Salisbury Plain, the Kennet and Avon Canal, Woodhenge and Durrington Walls. It all seems quite easy to do on existing paths except for the slight problem of the MOD firing range on Salisbury Plain. The route is about 38 miles and so three easy days would do it, though it should also be possible to walk it in two if need be.

Feeling happy as I always do when a plan starts to formulate in my mind, I turned the page. An article on Greenland. More specifically an article on walking the Arctic Circle Trail which seems to be a cheap way to see Greenland. I’ve been looking at ways of getting to Greenland for a few years and haven’t yet managed to come up with a cheap way of doing it. I’d have to fly from Copenhagen and all in all flights would be about £1000. But once there the walking is free, I can wild camp or stay in free huts and even the canoe I would need to paddle across one of the lakes is free. I’d take my own lightweight dried food and so would only need to buy fuel for my stove. The trail is 165km long and to divide it into a hut-to-hut traverse would mean taking nine days. With a few days spent at either end that would give me about a fortnight in Greenland. I could then spend the rest of the summer cycling and camping in Denmark. I’m already feeling quite excited about this. I won’t be able to do it this summer, but I don’t have anything on my calendar for next year yet!

Sex and the City 2

The New Yorkers visit the UAE and get into scrapes because of their ignorance and lack of cultural sensitivity.

I’ve never got into watching Sex and the City – I don’t think I’ve actually seen any of the TV episodes. I did watch the first movie a few years ago, but wasn’t impressed. When the second movie came out and was supposedly set in Abu Dhabi I wanted to watch it just to see how the Arab/Muslim/Middle East themes had been dealt with. But as I didn’t expect to enjoy it I certainly didn’t want to pay full price for it.

A couple of weeks ago I found the DVD in a supermarket for £2.99 and so bought it. I was right not to pay full price and right that I wasn’t likely to enjoy it. In fact it actually feels like I’ve wasted over two hours of my life watching it, but I have to remind myself that the reason I wanted to see it wasn’t to spend a relaxing evening watching an enjoyable film but instead was to have my academic head on and critique it. So I suppose I’m glad I’ve seen it.   

The movie was actually filmed in Morocco as the producers couldn’t get permission to film in Abu Dhabi or anywhere else in the UAE. No wonder. All the stereotypes are there: opulent hotels, sand dunes and camels, mysogynistic men and beautiful houseboys, women in abayas and niqabs with designer clothes underneath, religious fervour regarding sexuality and the showing of female flesh, and so on and so on. The storyline is very weak (I’m not sure there really is one) and the bits of ‘story’ seem to be there just to provide a link between the stereotypes.

But maybe I’m being too harsh and this blatant demonstration of stereotypes is actual a good thing, as a lot of the Middle East including the Gulf is like this and so the film is showing that a holiday here is not the same as a holiday in the Med or the Caribbean and therefore you shouldn’t expect to act in the way you would in either of these locations or at home. It’s also more of a reflection on Americans than on Arabs or Muslims as it pictures the New Yorkers arriving having done no research and having no idea as to how to behave or dress in an acceptable manner and assuming that it would be fine to blunder on in their usual manner. Well, ok, one of the women had done some research and she tried to educate the others, but these snippets seemed mainly to be for the purpose of setting the scene for what would later go wrong and for keeping the viewer up to speed as to why things were a problem for the girls. This is an assumption that viewers are uneducated in such matters and need them pointing out, which I suppose is justified on the whole.

So maybe I shouldn’t be so critical of the film, after all they haven’t actually depicted anthing ‘wrong’ and if it encourages future visitors to think a bit more about cultural sensitivity before choosing to go there then that can’t be a bad thing. I do wish they’d shown more of the positives to balance it out a bit though.

New Year’s Eve in Reykjavik

Bonfires, fireworks, a satirical TV programme and a very strange drink. It’s NYE Reykjavik style.

It’s a month since my New Year’s Eve Reykjavik style. It’s a quite a traditional thing to do to go to a bonfire and there are about a dozen big bonfires at various locations around the city. Luckily when I went for a walk to the animal park from the City hostel I happened to notice a rather large bonfire being built up just at the back of the hostel.

The snowy hostel

New Year’s Eve fell on a Saturday and in the morning I ploughed my way through high piles of snow to walk into town. I’d wanted to go to the flea market but it was closed, so I just ended up having a bit of a wander and then going for coffee. The buses all stopped running early afternoon and I didn’t fancy walking back so I made sure I was at the bus stop in plenty of time. I thought the bus might have been full, but there was hardly anyone on it.

A lazy afternoon with a bit of a snooze followed. In the evening I joined other hostellers in the common area for chat and vodka. We also tried a traditional Christmas and New Year soft drink that is made by mixing a malt drink with fizzy orangeade. It wasn’t nearly as bad as it sounds. There was what sounded like a Mass in Icelandic being played out over the TV speakers. This in itself wasn’t so interesting, but instead of showing the Mass itself on the TV there was just a very long series of slides picturing lots of wonderful shots of Iceland in winter.

Cosy and Christmassy inside the hostel

At about 8.30pm, through the large living room windows we saw the bonfire start to flame and so, all wrapped up and drinks in hand, we walked over to it. It was huge and wild and hot with great reflections in the puddles of melting of snow. People of all ages were out lighting fireworks and flares and waving sparklers. We could see fireworks all around Reykjavik from where we were so had a great show. Bits of hot ash, some still aflame, wafted from the fire and the fireworks and flares were going off in all directions. It would have been a health and safety officer’s nightmare, but luckily there didn’t seem to be any present.

Bonfire and a view of Reykjavik
Bonfire reflections

As the fire started to die down people drifted away. This was the time every Icelander heads for a TV set to watch the same programme: Áramótaskaup, a satirical look at the year just gone. We watched it and it did seem quite funny, but as it was in Icelandic and as we hadn’t spent the previous year in Iceland, we didn’t get any of it. Apparently this programme will be the main topic of conversation for Icelanders over the next week or so.

Flares
Red hot ash flying everywhere

At midnight the sky exploded with fireworks. We went upstairs and got a great view. They were going off all over Reykjavik and went on for ages. Around New Year the law allows anyone to purchase fireworks and around 500 tonnes are imported each year. They are sold in benefit of rescue charities and are a great money-raiser for them. There had been plenty going off ever since I arrived, but this was just practice for the real bonanza.

And fireworks

Once the sky started to quieten I went to bed. There were still plenty of fireworks going off, but they were more random. Some people in the hostel walked into town to hit the bars, but I had an early start as I’d booked on to a Golden Circle tour for the next morning so decided to be sensible. And I didn’t fancy getting all my layers back on to trudge through the snow again.

Tips for Kilimanjaro

Tips for climbing Kilimanjaro from a man who’s been up there 10 times already.

I went to the Destinations Travel Show in Manchester today. It’s comprised mostly of stalls run by travel companies advertising their tours. As I tend to avoid tours this isn’t of much interest to me. Even the talks are basically a half hour of advertising blurb. I’ve been to these shows before so I knew what to expect and only went because I had a free ticket and didn’t have anything else planned.

I did find one thing of interest of though.  A talk on climbing Kilimanjaro by a tour leader who’s already been up and down ten times. He works for Exodus, so of course some of the talk was on what Exodus do for you if you go with them (good breakfasts served in a mess tent and the open-sided toilet tent always positioned with a great view), but a lot of what he had to say was more general and included a lot of good tips. Here are some of them:

  • Acclimatisation – each day when you reach your camp for the night, don’t stop there. Have a bit of a rest then climb for about another hour, before coming back down to the tents. This starts getting your body ready for the thinner oxygen, but you’re sleeping at a lower altitude to recover from your first exposure to it.
  • Take plenty of chocolate – healthy food is all well and good, but there are times when only comfort food will do. This will be one of them.
  • Expect pain, lots of it.
  • Headaches aren’t only caused by altitude, but by the intensity of the sun hitting your eyeballs too. Take a really good pair of sunglasses.
  • Wear a hat – don’t fail to summit because you’ve got sunstroke.
  • Take some really good earplugs – you’ll be sleeping in close proximity to a lot of people some of whom will snore. And snoring is amplified at altitude.
  • Don’t panic if you can’t sleep. As long as you are horizontal and resting, you are still doing your body some good. On this note, don’t take a nap when you arrive at camp as this will really throw your sleep patterns out.
  • If you’re hungry you’re doing ok. People who are hungry make it to the top. If you’re not hungry, it doesn’t mean you won’t make it, but it is a sign that you may struggle a bit more.
  • There isn’t a lot of snow at the top and what there is is very compacted and frozen. Normal walking boots are fine, you won’t need crampons.
  • You need to drink a lot of water even if you’re not thirsty. However, water bladders will be frozen when you start heading for the summit at midnight on the final day. Carry your water in an alternative way.
  • There are several reasons why the last day starts at midnight. One is so that you can’t see where you’re going. It’s about 7hrs on a switchback path that would destroy any morale you had left if you could see it.
  • If you use an ipod wrap a heat pad round it otherwise it won’t work.
  • After the first few days, you’ll be above the cloud cover so it won’t matter what the weather’s like – you won’t be in it.
  • The weather is really changeable and no one time of the year is particularly better than any other.
  • The climb starts at around 1600m – spending a few days in the area first will help your acclimatisation.
  • Running, swimming and cycling are the best training. They have to be done to the extent that you really get your heartbeat up and sweat a lot.
  • Walking across ‘The Saddle’ (the strip of land that dips between the lower peak and and the summit) is soul-destroying. It’s a day of walking with nothing ever seeming to get any closer.
  • Don’t expect to do too much talking whilst you’re walking – you’ll be conserving your oxygen for breathing.

Planning

Lots of plans are starting to come together.

Having plans for fun things to do in the holidays or at weekends is what keeps me going through term time. Especially when I work 14 hour days like today. And know that I’ll be late again tomorrow. And even that won’t be enough; I’ll still be behind with everything I need to do. So the plans are really important.

This week my plans have really been coming together for half term. I’ll be going down to London to stay with a friend in Chesham for the first part of the week and then heading round the M25 to Kent to stay with different friends for a few days.

On the Monday I’m going to Wembley to do a tour of the new stadium. We’re then heading into town to have a late lunch at Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen restaurant. To finish off our day we have tickets for a Night of Adventure at the Vue Cinema in Leicester Square. This is a roll call of people who do interesting, adventurous and intrepid things. They each present a slide show of their ‘adventure’ but have only 20 slides and 20 seconds per slide to present it. I’m hoping for inspiration.

We also want to go to the Vertigo 42 bar on the 42nd floor of the Nat West Tower. This is the second tallest building in London and the bar is small and surrounded by windows with amazing views. It’s expensive so we’ll only be having one drink there. I don’t know if we’ll have time to fit it in on Monday between the restaurant and the show so may have to postpone it till another evening.

For the Tuesday and Wednesday I have my tickets for the Hajj exhibition at the British Museum and the floatation tank. I’ll have plenty of time on these days to do other things as well, like visiting some of my favourite shops: Stanford’s, the Algerian Coffee Stores, the bookshops on Charing Cross Road …

As well as plans for this half term, I also have the England game to look forward to in the June half term and Womad in the summer. A few weekends are getting booked up too, with friends coming to stay at the end of the January and a weekend in Nottingham planned so I can go to my first ever ice hockey game with a friend’s daughter (she’s a bit of an expert and so will be able to explain it all to me).

The 14 hour days don’t seem so bad when I think about all of this.

Eating lunch in Reykjavik

Three places in Reykjavik for a delcious vegetarian lunch.

Swarta Kaffi

Swarta Kaffi must have an owner who has spent time in South Africa. It’s a small place on the first floor of a building on Laugevegur. It’s very cosy inside and has a definite African theme – there are masks and other African artefacts all over the place. What makes me think it’s a South African connection rather than African in general? Well, it’s the food. Swarta Kaffi is famous for serving soup in a bowl made from bread. Each day they have a meat soup and a vegetarian soup – generally cauliflower. The ‘bowl’ is a loaf sized bread roll with the middle pulled out. It is then filled with soup and the extracted bread is served on the side. This is an Icelandic play on the bunny chows of Durban. Durban has a large Indian population and so curry is pretty much a staple. A bunny chow is a loaf of bread hollowed out and filled with curry; the extra bread is also served on the side. I haven’t seen this done anywhere else. I might have thought it coincidence except for the African theme in the cafe. Last time I was here I did ask the waitress about the origins of their main dish, but she didn’t know.

The soup and bread is delicious. The staff are friendly and the atmosphere is welcoming. It’s a bit more expensive than buying soup in some places so it’s somewhere I don’t make a habit of going to, but it’s definitely something to look forward to once on each trip.

Groen Kostur

This place is hidden at the back of a kind of small shopping centreoffice block, opposite a car park and a branch of Bonus (the cheap supermarket chain). It’s only a minute or two walk from Laugevegur. The place is small and modern with small, round, high tables and high chairs. So it’s not the most comfortable of places to sit. A lot of people seem to get takeaway from here so I suppose comfort isn’t the priority.

The food is all vegetarian and vegan and there’s a good choice. There are always several choices of ‘plate’ as well as snacks, cakes, soup and so on. The ‘plates’ are made up of a mix of salads, quiches, rice, potatoes, and so on. They are served with a small bread roll and each type of ‘plate’ has a fixed price. There are a selection of dressings on the counter and a selection of jugs of water. One jug has plain water and the others each have a different fruit such as lemon, orange or apple floating in them.
The food is delicious. Each time I’ve been here I’ve tried one of their plates of food, but the soup served with bread and houmous also looks really tempting.

Gardurin

Gardurin is located about five minutes walk from Laugevegur and is another tiny lunch place. It closes in August each year for holidays so I wasn’t able to come here last time. Each week they produce a new menu with a different dish for each day of the week. This means there isn’t much choice but the food for each day sounded good and so I suppose it saved making a hard decision. The main dishes are served in full or half portions and there are soups and cakes as well. Everything is vegetarian.

The place is very hippie-ish with incense burning and Indian pictures and artefacts. The tables are small but as they are regular height this is a nicer place to sit than Groen Kostur.  It was quite friendly and the food was good, but if I had to choose I think I would go for Groen Kostur (even though it means sitting on a high chair) because although the food here is good, the food at Groen Kostur is even better!

Earthquakes and weather

Iceland has a lot of weather. It also has a lot of earthquakes.

Iceland has a lot of weather.

The local joke is that if you don’t like the weather, just wait five minutes and it will change. In summer this is true. I would be hot and cold in the same day; have rain, hail, wind, sun and fog all within the space of a few hours.

However, in the winter the weather seems a bit more stable, though as I was only there for a week and a half maybe I didn’t get a true picture. Most days it was cold and snowy with clear blue skies in between the snow showers.

I can understand though, why Iceland would need a pretty good met office with a pretty good website. However, the Icelandic met office website excels itself by also doubling as an earthquake website. There is a whole section of the website devoted to earthquakes and they constantly have a list showing the biggest earthquakes that have occurred in the last 48 hours. Yes. The biggest earthquakes that have occurred in the last 48 hours. There are that many.

One was felt by some of the guests in the hostel whilst I was there, but I didn’t feel anything. So I missed out on adding ‘experiencing an earthquake’ to the list of things I did on my holiday. (I have felt tremors before in Manchester, so I wasn’t too upset to miss out). But this is a cool website for anyone going to Iceland.